A little over half a year ago the South African people took to the polls and demanded sweeping changes in what became the most consequential general election in the country’s history. With the ANC (African National Congress) party’s tumultuous three-decade-long reign (characterized by corruption, mismanagement of public services & resources, among other similar scandals) finally coming to an end, few are feeling happier and more optimistic than those who are in South Africa’s beleaguered wine industry.
According to a March 2024 report by the drinks business (https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2024/03/tall-order-south-african-winemakers-rise-above-election-noise/), at the very heart of the industry’s key challenges were energy supply/ infrastructure; and logistical / supply chain bottlenecks. Take for instance, where shipments during pre-Covid days would take around three or four weeks to reach the UK (the biggest market for South African wine) from Cape Town, today that lead time is up to around 10 weeks. Such logistical issues, paired with the paltry harvest of 2023, resulted in a 17% drop in wine export volume last year.
Yet, against such insurmountable odds, many wine producers— both legacy estates & younger vignerons alike— have managed to turn these hurdles into opportunities for change & growth. I found it greatly encouraging when listening to some of the incredible tales told by SA’s most esteemed voices in wine including Bellingham’s Devon Lochhead, Hartenberg Wine Estate’s Heleen Rabe and Cape Wine Master Cathy Brewer from Stellenbosch’s famed Villiera Wines.
The brave new chapter they’re writing henceforth is going to be a powerful vinous story that’s characterized by innovation, resilience and perseverance.
Stylistically, the wines of South Africa are fast evolving, with an increasingly pronounced focus on elegance and restraint— all while proudly flying the flags for their champion varietals such as Chenin blanc and Pinotage. There’s also a revolution taking place in lighter South African reds such as Cinsault, Grenache, Gamay and Pinot Noir. The latter, particularly, is starting to break through to discerning international markets. Here are just a few fine bottles that I think more wine lovers around the world should get to know better…
1.David & Nadia Aristargos 2020
2.Hartenberg The Eleanor Chardonnay 2021
3.Villiera Monro Brut MCC 2015
4.Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2022
5.Mullineux Schist Syrah 2017
6.David & Nadia Hoe-Steen Chenin Blanc 2020
7.Keermont Riverside Chenin Blanc 2020
If the quality of these wines are of any indication, things are certainly looking up for South Africa. They too will serve a far greater purpose: reminding the wine-drinking world that good value does not equate to cheap; and they offer a message of longevity to winemakers’ & the entire industry’s legacy— I reckon that’s a perfect way to rise above the current & impending political challenges.
